We recently held a Winter Plumbing Class free to customers of Johnsons Home & Garden. For those who couldn’t make it (or those who want a refresher), we’ve compiled the essential takeaways below. From identifying the confusing array of pipe materials to busting common winter freezing myths, here is what you need to know to keep your home dry and warm this season.
1. Know Your System: Identifying Materials
Before you can fix a leak, you need to know what you are looking at. Plumbing pipes are generally divided into two categories: Drainage and Supply.
Drain, Waste, and Vent (DWV) Materials
These pipes carry waste away from your home.
- ABS Pipe: Black piping with a foam core. Used for drain/waste/vent only. Connection: One-step solvent cement.
- PVC Pipe (Sch. 40): White pipe. Rated for pressure applications but commonly used for drainage. Connection: Purple primer and PVC solvent cement.
- Copper DWV: Identified by a Yellow Stripe. Connection: Soldered joints.
- Galvanized: Steel threaded piping. Connection: Threaded joints with tape and compound.
- Cast Iron: Heavy black steel pipe. Connection: Poured lead joints or shielded couplings.
Water Supply Materials
These pipes bring hot and cold water to your fixtures.
- CPVC: Lightweight beige plastic. Connection: Orange primer and CPVC cement (or push-to-fit).
- Copper (Type M): Red Stripe. For indoor/aboveground use only.
- Copper (Type L): Blue Stripe. Thicker walls; can be used indoors, outdoors, and underground.
- PEX Pipe: Flexible plastic (Red, Blue, or White).
- PEX A: Uses expansion rings.
- PEX B: Uses crimp rings.
- Galvanized: Dull silver heavy metal. Used for hot/cold water.
- Black Iron: Black heavy metal. Strictly for Natural Gas or fuels.
2. Essential System Knowledge
Do you know where your main shutoff is? In an emergency, minutes count.
- Shutoff Valves: Locate the main shutoff at your water meter (requires a meter key) and the main shutoff inside the house.
- Water Pressure: High pressure destroys appliances. Use a pressure gauge to ensure your home is between 45 and 80 PSI.
- Sewer vs. Septic: Know which you have! Look for a “cleanout” (usually a square-head plug) in your yard.
3. Annual Maintenance Checklist
Perform these checks once or twice a year to save thousands in potential repairs.
Monitor & Exercise
- Watch the Bill: Unexplained high usage often indicates a silent leak.
- The “Two Drips” Rule: Two drips a second can waste 10 gallons a day.
- Exercise Valves: Turn every valve (and faucet) in the house on and off once a year to keep them from seizing up.
Water Heater Maintenance
- Visual Check: Inspect supply lines and valves for corrosion.
- T&P Valve: Manually open the Temperature and Pressure valve twice a year.
- Warning: If this valve drips, it indicates high heat or pressure. DO NOT PLUG THIS VALVE.
- Flush the Tank: Once a year, turn off the power/gas and water supply. Drain the tank via a garden hose to remove sediment.
- Anode Rod: Check the sacrificial anode rod while the tank is empty. If corroded, replace it to extend the life of your heater.
Drain Care
- Kitchen: Clean garbage disposals with ice and lemons. Always use cold water when running the disposal to keep the motor cool.
- The “Fatberg” Warning: Never flush “flushable” wipes. They do not break down like toilet paper and cause massive clogs in septic and city sewer systems.
- Clogs:
- Hair: Use a plastic drain stick (zip-it) or small snake.
- Grease: Try hot water first.
- Chemicals: Use extreme caution. They can damage pipes and burn skin. Always wear gloves.
4. Winter Prep: Myths vs. Reality
Freezing temperatures are the enemy of plumbing. Let’s clear up some confusion.
Myth: “I need to drip ALL my faucets.”
Reality: Usually, unless it is below 20°F, dripping isn’t necessary if your home is insulated. If it gets that cold, open cabinet doors to expose pipes to home heating. You generally only need to drip fixtures on exterior walls.
Myth: “I have frost-free hose bibs, so I’m safe.”
Reality: You must still disconnect the hose. If a hose is attached, water remains trapped inside the fixture and will freeze, potentially bursting the pipe deep inside the wall. You often won’t realize it has burst until you turn it on in the Spring.
Myth: “Frozen pipes always burst.”
Reality: Not always. PEX can expand up to 3 times its size! If a pipe freezes:
- Turn off the water.
- Use a hair dryer or heating pad to thaw it.
- NEVER use a torch. Open flames can boil the trapped water, causing an explosion, or melt the pipe.
5. What to Do if a Pipe Bursts
Preparation turns an emergency into an inconvenience.
- Shut off the water immediately.
- Mitigate damage (buckets, squeegees).
- Quick Fix: If accessible, you can cut the burst section and use a “SharkBite” style push-to-fit cap or coupling to get water back on to the rest of the house while you wait for a repair.
6. When to Call a Pro (Licensing Guide)
Sometimes you need an expert. If you are hiring a plumber, ensure they carry the correct license for the job.
(Note: The following designations refer to Washington State requirements—check local regulations if you are outside WA).
- Journey Level (PL01): Qualified for all phases of construction and maintenance.
- Residential (PL02): Limited to single-family dwellings/duplexes (up to 3 stories).
- Residential Service (PL04): Can perform leak repairs and drain cleaning on existing fixtures/pipes.
- Backflow (PL30): Limited to maintenance of backflow assemblies (requires BAT certification).
Need Supplies?
Whether you need a new anode rod, pipe insulation, or a pressure gauge, Johnsons Home & Garden has the inventory and the expertise to help you get the job done.